Specs and design, what they mean in practice
On paper, the hardware is simple: MDF cabinet, front-firing 10-inch woofer, ported enclosure, and a Class D amplifier.
That tells me this sub was built to add useful bass in normal rooms, not win a spec-sheet contest.
The slim cabinet is a real selling point. In an apartment or shared room, depth matters almost as much as sound.
A sub that fits beside a console is easier to live with than a giant cube that dominates the room. And gear you can place properly usually performs better than gear you resent and jam into a corner.
If you’re comparing the S 810 vs. Jamo S 808, the smaller model saves space, but the 810 gives you a little more extension and headroom. That’s usually the better trade if you’ve got the floor space.
How to connect the Jamo S 810 in a turntable system
The clean path looks like this: turntable → phono preamp → receiver → sub out/LFE → subwoofer.
Some turntables from Audio-Technica or Fluance have a built-in phono preamp, which simplifies the front end. But the receiver still does the heavy lifting for sub integration in most systems.
Spend time on two controls: crossover and gain. Get those right, and the bass fills in under your bookshelf speakers instead of piling on top of them.
Phase matters too, especially if placement is awkward. And no, the sub won't fix bad speaker placement by itself.
If your mains are shoved into a shelf or jammed against a wall, fix that first. If you’re still building the front end, the guides on what is a phono preamp, how to choose a turntable, and full turntable setup will save you some frustration.